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SUdahkah Kita Cinta Kuliner Pribumi?
Kompas.com

SUdahkah Kita Cinta Kuliner Pribumi?

Kompas.com

Kompas.com

KOTATOEA.COM — Indonesia selain dikenal memiliki tempat yang indah dan keberagaman budaya, tapi juga kulinernya. Namun banyak dari kita tidak sepenuhnya cinta akan kuliner di negerinya sendiri?

“Persoalannya bukan pada rasa, tetapi persoalannya kita tak pernah merayakan masakan Indonesia itu apa. Kita kebanyakan tidak kenal dan akhirnya kalah dalam perayaan kuliner,” kata Sejarawan JJ Rizal dalam acara peluncuran kembali buku “Mustika Rasa”, di Kedai Tjikini, Jakarta, beberapa waktu lalu.

JJ Rizal menjelaskan jika saat ini masyarakat Indonesia hanya menjadi konsumen yang menerima secara mentah kuliner negara lain.

“Kalau ke jalan restoran Padang mulai disaingi restoran Korea. Ini bukan soal rasa, tetapi jadi soal kalau kita tak bisa menolak dan menjadikan bagian dari makanan kita di masa lalu,” kata JJ Rizal.

Ia memberi contoh perbedaan dengan masyarakat Indonesia zaman lampau yang justru dapat menerima kebudayaan bangsa lain yang masuk, tetapi dapat memodifikasinya kembali.

Misalnya saja kue poffertjes jadi kue cubit, selat solo, cap cay, dan makanan lainnya.

“Ironinya kita pernah punya kepala negara dan pendiri Indonesia (Ir Soekarno) yang berusaha mendekonstruksi kita, membuat buku untuk mendefinisikan kuliner Indonesia. Itu adalah salah satu politik dalam berkebudayaan. Makanan adalah unsur yang penting dalam kepbribadian bangsa, wajah muka Indonesia,” katanya.

Perlu diketahui Soekarno pada tahun 1967 menerbitkan buku “Mustika Rasa” yang merupakan dokumentasi kuliner Indonesi saat itu.

Buku tersebut tercatat sebagai satu-satunya buku dokumentasi kuliner Indonesia yang dibuat secara resmi oleh negara sampai saat ini.

“Syukurlah banyak yang merayakan kuliner saat ini, tetapi hanya rasanya saja. Tak ada buku besar sebagai contoh dan panutan. Ayo dong negara urus makanan karena kemerdekaan itu urusannya sandang, pangan, papan. Dulu negara menjadikan makanan sebagai sesuatu yang serius, dan makanan dijadikan tulang punggung,” kata JJ Rizal.

Selain itu ia juga menggangap dokumentasi kuliner penting sebagai ‘alat tempur’ untuk menggempur datangnya berbagai kebudayaan khususnya kuliner dari negara lain.  (*)

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